Louey Colicchio Reviews: Blue Water Grill

In the never ending quest to discover culinary greatness in New York City, Gallen de Robuchon, most commonly known as The Chef of the Century, has enlisted his disciple and protégé, Louey Colicchio, to traverse and explore the great expanse of New York City restaurants with the goal to bring knowledge to the 9 loyal readers of New Jersey Is Clean, Idiots. Today brings the first installment of what we hope is many to come. Gallen de Robuchon hopes you enjoy the contributions of Louey Colicchio here, and in the future.

Restaurant Review:
Blue Water Grill
31 Union Square West
New York, NY 10003

www.brguestrestaurants.com

Ambience:
The setting at Blue Water Grill is diverse. The location is excellent, right in the heart of Union Square, which initially brings a good feel to the evening. Upon entering, you navigate your way down a hallway and enter the first floor bar area, which seems to be a happening scene for people who like to throw down a couple of cocktails prior to a meal. There are also tables downstairs, and it seems to me that it is a more lively and loud atmosphere because of the location of the bar downstairs. If that is your thing, then you will like it. Louey Colicchio, however, sometimes enjoys a more mellow environment, and that is precisely what he received upon walking to the second floor of the dining area. The tables included booth-style seating on one side, with two chairs on the other. The art was mellow and understated, and the lighting was nicely muted, but not too dark.
Ambience Grade: B+

Service:
Blue Water Grill is part of the conglomerate known as B.R. Guest Restaurants, who own and operate about a dozen restaurants in New York City, including well known spots such as all of the Dos Caminos and Ruby Foo’s Times Square. While I generally would rather support a well run, small, family oriented business (Please check out my new restaurant, Colicchio & Sons, which epitomizes those values), there is something to be said for the resources and expertise that comes with such a brand. This was all a long-winded way of saying the service was flawless. Upon entering, the hostesses were very polite. Our jackets were checked and we were lead to our table. Upon our arrival, our waters were briskly filled (after politely being asked if we would like Pellegrino or bottled water, which we declined), and throughout the meal the water was consistently being replenished - an essential and appreciated element for The Chef of the Century’s disciple. Bread was served promptly, with a dollop of soft butter - a subtle, yet appreciated nuance. Our order was taken quickly, our wine served on time, and the food came at a consistently good pace. Throughout, we were always greeted with a smile. The woman I happened to be with on this evening got fresh pepper on her salad, which was so kindly offered and executed, and the pre-bussing was timed excellently, an under-the-radar sign that a guest is being treated expertly. Our check was presented quickly, and returned even quicker. Overall, very well done.
Service Grade: A

Appetizers:
On to the food. After all, this is a cooking competition! For first course, I dabbled with the Baked Little Neck Clams Casino, while the woman had the Heirloom Citrus Salad. My clams, served in the shell, were four morsels of happiness. The house cured bacon gave it great flavor and that little bit of texture, and of course, everything is better with bacon. The dollop of cherry pepper aioli gave a slight punch, which really brought the dish together. The Citrus salad stole the appetizer show, however. The simple combination of the bitter arugula and fennel combined with the sweet and sour citrus was balanced perfectly with the aged pecorino cheese, and finished nicely with a white balsamic vinaigrette. What made this a prefect appetizer was that it really woke up and excited the palate for what was coming next. Well done.
Appetizer Grade: A-

Main Course:
As a man of the sea, I continued to venture into the ocean for my main course, which was a Slow Roasted Gooseberry Cove Cod. My company for the evening remained on land with the Maple Brined Pork Chop. First the Cod. When the dish was presented, it was very appealing. A simple roasted filet of fish rested upon a bed of Braised Short Rib Risotto, which was then outlined by a Pomegranate Reduction. My one complaint with the presentation was that it was all a little too white, with the plate, the rice, and the fish contributing. While the pomegranate reduction really stood out, I think it could have used a little more color, maybe adding the baby spinach on top, instead of hidden beneath the fish and in the risotto. Once I dug in, I was quite pleased. The fish was simply cooked, really letting this flaky treat stand alone. However, what stole the show was the risotto. Creamy, cooked slightly al dente, combined with the pomegranate reduction - it was divine. My only critique is that the risotto at times overpowered the fish.

On to the pork. For a restaurant known for its seafood prowess, this dish was really a success. While not the most creative combination, the execution was flawless. The pork was cooked to the point where the outside was slightly charred, giving the pork that great flavor combined with a nice texture. The Fingerling Sweet Potatoes added another sweet element to the dish, which was tamed by the slight bitterness of the Swiss Chard. The Bacon Bourbon Gastrique added color to the plating and bacon to the dish, and as noted previously, you can’t go wrong with bacon. I have nothing negative to say about this dish.
Main Course Grade: B+

Dessert:
For dessert, the woman did what women do, and went for the chocolate. The Chocolate Butterscotch Tart with Espresso Toffee Chip Ice Cream looked excellent, and while I didn’t really dig in, my female counterpoint finished the entire plate, which must mean something went right.

I went with the Citrus Cheesecake with a Tangerine Sorbet and Pistachio Financier. Another beautifully plated desert; the height and color provided by the candied slice of orange was well executed and creatively done. I enjoyed that the cake wasn’t as rich and dense as cheesecake normally is, and instead had a nice fluffy quality to it. The tangerine sorbet paired perfectly with the cheesecake, providing a clean, refreshing element which was a great counterbalance to the cake. I approved of the fact that both desserts included an ice cream or sorbet, but by the time the plates got to our table, they were slightly melted. While I do not wish to blame a restaurant on a matter of physics, perhaps putting the scoop of ice cream in a separate, small ramekin, then placing it on the plate, would remedy this problem.
Dessert Grade: B+

Overall, an enjoyable experience. The service and ambiance are appreciated and pleasurable, and the food certainly holds it’s own. If you are looking for a meal while wandering around Union Square, you would do well to give Blue Water Grill a shot.